We live on the Gongti Strip – Beijing’s new nightlife

Our SOHO – small office home (well, not that small – over 450 sqm) is located right in the area largely preferred by foreigners, close to Sanlitun, the area between the 2nd and 3rd Ring Roads in the east of the city. Next to us are the Workers’ Stadium and Workers’ Gymnasium. Our street in Chinese is called “Gongti Xi Lu” – Workers Stadium West Road. Five minutes walk and we are in Morel’s Restaurant ( the “old” one), our usual restaurant to enjoy Belgian fries, mussels, steak, waffles and all the other goodies.
Sanlitun has remarkable concentration of restaurants, discos, bars, sauna houses, gyms and all you can wish for entertainment – including Poly Theater where many top performances are held (ballet, classical music, …).
No need to have car, we can just walk to any place.
Some years ago Gongti Xi Lu was a rather quiet street with the only landmark being “Gongti 100” – the world’s largest bowling center, 100 lanes in one single space. In the evening the gates of the stadium and gymnasium are used by groups of retired locals to practice “fan dancing”, classical dancing and others; a regular group of kids also train kungfu style moves.
Restaurants came and disappeared, mostly large Chinese eating halls. The street also has some foreign restaurants, one Italian (Metro – good pastas) and a crêperie (Celtic pancakes).
Night life was limited and a Latin “Club Flamengo” nightspot quickly disappeared.
Discos came to the Stadium area and became successful – Vics and Mix and others.
Babyface changed it all – a huge disco (two separate dance floors), high-tech, luxurious and with the latest techno music. Not for talking – you can hardly order, once I ordered a beer and got a gin tonic instead. The crowd is overwhelmingly Chinese who consume red wine mixed with soft drinks as well as Chivas Whisky with green tea (a lethal combination).
Bellagio, Green T. House and Le Quai (a 250 years old wooden Chinese house brought over from Jiangsu Province) became a hit. Then the rest followed – Cargo Club, Coco Banana, Cutie Club, Angel, Big Echo and the gay hangout Destination (now expanding – business seems great). Most regularly host foreign DJs. After 10 pm the traffic in “Gongti Strip” becomes gridlocked and cars are parked anywhere.
New restaurants are opening up – one I tried just a couple of days ago is called “Three Guangxi Men” – hot and spicy, as well as some creative hotpots.
The street is now being enlarged, trees have been cut, the nice park lovely installed last year bulldozed. Huge pipe ducts are installed – looks like power lines and telecom. No clue yet what they are up to. Looks like the city planning has no clue either because they “repaired” the whole street barely a year ago. What a waste of money… We sure miss all the nice old trees that made the street so charming. Is it because of the “Strip” or preparing for the 2008 Olympics? Both the Stadium and the Gymnasium are being modernized, they will be used during the Olympics for boxing and football.
click to enlarge The Gongti venues will be used in 2008
What a change, I for sure could not find something similar in Belgium. Now we can drink and party all night and get safely home as long as we manage to cross the street. Our SOHO does not suffer from the noise – we are isolated by two large buildings, one is under construction/demolition/construction since ten years and will become a complex of luxury serviced apartments, offices and shops. For the moment it makes sure I don’t oversleep – they start banging and drilling latest at 7am every day. The other is the well-guarded State Banking Regulatory Commission – two soldiers stand guard day and night.

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The building under permanent “construction” seen from our other place in Julong (see the rubble from the construction), you can see at the left corner the red colours from Babyface

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Gongti Xi Lu: street musicians, one of the citizen’s spontaneous activities

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Our “SOHO” – Julong Garden, next to Gongti area

IKEA: superlatives from Sweden – Beijing loves it

30 April 2006
IKEA opened its second largest store in the world on 12 April, in Beijing. With 43,000 sqm of exhibition space, four levels, 77 room settings and underground parking for 1,200 cars. As we are finishing the renovation of two apartments, one for our friend and one that will rent out, we needed to hunt for more furniture and decoration. For the first time I visited myself an IKEA store in China and it was an exhausting tour – 22 April. No need to go running in the gym that day. It is simply huge and crowded too – we went on a Saturday afternoon just after a spicy Thai lunch.
The store is located just next to the highway to the airport and the 4th Ring Road. First surprise – the underground car park was pretty full. The Beijing crowd loves their cars and are now (by force) filling up the car parks, as there is no other way to get your car parked in front of the door: Chinese are not very hot yet to use underground car parks.
On the opening day the store received a record 70,000 visitors and sold 6,500 hotdogs at the food corner. They also sell ice-cream, all at rock bottom prices. The police had to intervene to avoid chaos on the ring road, difficult, as chaos on the roads is the norm here.
I grew up with IKEA, in Belgium and in Hong Kong. Twenty years later I still have some pieces with me, they survived a dozen or so international removals. It might not be everybody’s taste but it is sure practical and here IKEA has lowered their prices to compete with the copycats. So, all quite reasonable and it has lots of interesting stuff – 7,000 products actually. We also bought three fluffy rats – three of us shopping are “rats” (Chinese sign). I even found the impossible: anti-slip rubber mats to put under carpets, with the tasty detail they smell like German sauerkraut.
The Chinese customers seem to be curious, sometimes puzzled but surely not just window shopping. We had a bit of a hard time to understand the system, you have to fill out small forms with a crayon (available at every corner). My Chinese shopping partners did not get it right, they still thought they could present the form at the checkout and get all the furniture home delivered. Nope, you pick it all up yourself in the huge warehouse section and get it home yourself – a delivery service is available outside however. Not my problem – it was all explained in Chinese only and that’s not my department. So we just wheeled out a huge shopping cart with the little stuff, somebody will go back to take care of the furniture…
What a change again. When we moved to Shanghai in 1995 we need furniture for our (large) villa but could not find anything at all. We could not even buy a simple bed: one could only buy a complete bedroom set, all ugly and pure kitsch. The furniture even came with “disco lights” – decorated with colored lamps all over blinking. Might be to stimulate the senses and avoid expensive Viagra. We gave it all up.
My ever resourceful better half started drawing IKEA type furniture for the whole house, kitchen, bedroom, living room, etc. She went to factory and simply ordered a huge truck of it all. It (barely) survived 3 removals and is still now with us in Beijing. Practical and simple. Except it was a headache to identify the dozens of doors, shelves and other parts to dismantle and reassemble. We used stickers but as always we ended up with strange new combinations. The family being handy with drilling machines, screws, hammers and other creative additions it all finally found its place again, in my offices and bedrooms.
Now you can find about everything in Shanghai and Beijing. Besides IKEA there are other similar brands like HOLA, Illinois, and many others. The shopping centers for house decoration, furniture, fittings, construction material, sanitary ware, lighting etc. are so huge they look rather like small cities. You find imports, domestic and the usual copycats.
According to HOLA, every year the average Beijing family spends nearly US$ 1,000 on home furnishing and alike.

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Our present livingroom with the Shanghai made furniture and sofas from Brazil

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The new place in Julong that needs IKEA and more

First images posted… Beijing’s pollution at it’s best

Olympics anybody? We are all scratching our heads and wiping the dust out of our eyes. Since more than a week we are suffering from one of the worst pollutions since years and blown away by sandstorms.On Sunday 9 April I joined the annual Ekiden Relay Marathon in Beijing. I could not find my team at the start (Tiananmen Square) except for one guy who came too late to catch to bus to go to his starting point. He promised to take a taxi to get there, as I did not know him I was not really convinced. Just before I left with my bus to the relay point for my segment – 7.2K up to the finish on Tiananmen, there turned up the only guy I actually knew – Mike. So we all hoped for a miracle that the other team members would materialize. I calculated the time I could expect Mike to turn up at the relay point. Actually I thought he wouldn’t… but he did.
It was around 11:30 when I started running and I noticed there was somewhere a sun trying to get through the haze. The race is a challenge for amateurs (like me), you run nearly alone on the large 2nd Ring Road and it seems there is no end to it. Coming closer to Qianmen – a huge old gate at the south of Tiananmen Square I could hardly see it because of the pollution. I had trained reasonably well but I felt it was so hard running, my muscles seemed OK but my heart was at 150 plus and my body said – don’t overdo it (at 57 that wise). The last sprint I shared with a young Chinese girl, she was running hard, then walking, then running again. I encouraged her to speed up and she arrived some seconds before me. As soon as I finished I started coughing violently for some minutes. Another lonely teammate waited for me, from the Swissotel.
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Our “Swissotel Team” did not too bad – the 42.2 Km in 3 hrs 20 min and 39 sec. I was officially clocked at 32 min 22 sec for my 7.2 Km (Oh well… I had 38 min on my watch but maybe China uses different watches?).
In the afternoon I went on the website of the Beijing Environmental Protection Bureau and was shocked. The API (Air Pollution Index) was at… 500. Meaning: the highest possible on the scale. At 150 people with respiratory difficulties (asthma, etc.) should refrain from exercising outdoors. At 500, other cities simply STOP. No more traffic, factories shut down if possible. But Beijing was happily running a Marathon. I called Karl, a friend who was in another team – in the afternoon he was still coughing. The next day finally the press admitted “there was serious pollution”. You must be kidding. They should have cancelled the race all together. Note: pollution levels in Beijing of 150 are nothing special to write about.
The heck. I had 4 small cigars that day. What the point not to smoke under the circumstances? The 500 level continued for two more days. Then the sand storms started. Yesterday (17 April) I woke up, outside there was yellow dust everywhere. In the evening I went out to have a nice dinner with the unknown teammates, at the Swissotel. On the way. drops of “water” came from the sky – correction: mud. Later on I found out it was artificial rain…
According to Beijing Today Daily, that Sunday night 330,000 ton of dust fell on the city in one day, 15.5 Kg per inhabitant and 20 grams/sqm. But – good news, the particulate matter was bigger in size, though still less than 100 microns – still better than the usual one – less than 10 microns. If you are familiar with pollution terms, you’ll understand. If not, don’t bother to understand, it would be detrimental to your peace of mind.
Welcome to Beijing! We all just wonder how it will be during the Olympics in August 2008. Of course we have no reason: Beijing apparently will stop 2 million vehicles months before the Games, allowing only 1.4 million in the city. (guess who will be allowed to drive!?). No more construction, etc. etc. Many people will be encouraged to take “holidays”. If that does not work, the army (?) will shoot rockets to fight against too high humidity. I remember one recent August when Beijing has a free outdoors sauna exactly during “the” week.
The positive side: with that recent awful August in mind and the recent pollution levels/sand storms Beijing has been faced with the threat. Nobody wants the nightmare in August 2008, not being able to see Qianmen Gate.
See here Qianmen Gate on a better day!

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As taxis will become more expensive in Beijing and sand is becoming a traffic hazard, China Daily suggested on 23 April to bring in camels from China’s Far West. Fares have not been set yet and we are all anxiously waiting.

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2006 Starting the blog… 1980 starting in Beijing

Beijing 10 April 2006
What brought me to Beijing? Politics? Philosophy? The reasons were quite pragmatic and “capitalist”: I needed a job and a Belgian company was looking for a victim to open their rep office in Beijing. The pay was good, the position challenging. And somehow I always felt that mysterious Far East was something I had to explore, after Brazil and Nigeria. So, there I went, against the advice of my friends: “Don’t go there, it’s too tough, you’ll get crazy”. Oh well, I was always a bit crazy anyway so it could become much worse. Could it? The first time I landed in Beijing was December 1980, after spending some time in the Belgian company to learn about their activities, about their China project and about China.

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And this is how the main avenue looked like (no – not in some countryside), the famous Chang An Avenue, seen from the Jianguomenwai flyover (the bridge over the Second Ring Road East side). The only building in view was the Beijing Hotel.

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October 2006: Valerie was right, so here you see how the avenue looked like in July 2006 – 25 years later. No comments needed here…

Hello world! This is Beijing!

10 April 2006
Welcome to my first blog ever. One is never too old to start a blog.
This is my first post. I will need some time to improve the look and content. But I promise this is going to be a irreverent look at daily life in Beijing. Don’t take it too seriously, living over here requires a good dose of sarcasm and humor. As I always answer to the typical question “how long have you been here?” – well, TOO long, for sure. More on the Page “About”.
click to enlarge Gilbert – Beijing, China click to enlarge